Ticks – Nobody Likes Them
- Paws To Peaks

- May 10, 2025
- 9 min read
Updated: Mar 1
Ticks can surprise people who have never seen one attached before. The sight is unpleasant, especially when it is already feeding - but surprise should not turn into panic.
Ticks do not bite aggressively, and they do not attack when touched. You can remove one calmly, even with your fingers, as long as you do it properly and without crushing it.
An attached tick is a situation to handle, not to fear. Read the guidance below and act methodically. This article is based on personal experience and everyday practice with our dog. It is not a substitute for veterinary advice. If anything here raises questions or doubts about your dog’s health, consult your veterinarian - that is always the right step.

Ticks are part of the landscape where we live and walk. If you spend time outdoors with a dog, you will meet them. There is no strategy that guarantees you won’t.
What matters is not panic, but routine.

If you find a tick
Remove it immediately. Do it properly, but do not wait.
You have no reliable way of knowing how long it has been attached. Some pathogens require time, others may be transmitted quickly. The only reasonable rule in practice is simple: once you see it, remove it.

Removing a tick With your fingers (when you have no tools)
Expose the tick - part the hair and clearly see where the tick enters the skin.
Grip low - place your fingernails on both sides of the tick, as close to the skin as possible. Aim for the area right at skin level, not the abdomen.
Do not squeeze - keep your grip firm but gentle. Do not crush the abdomen.
Pull straight out - pull slowly and steadily, straight away from the skin. No jerking.
Check the site - look at the tick and the bite area. If a small dark fragment remains in the skin, do not dig it out with your nails or a blade - clean the area and monitor it.
Clean and observe - disinfect the bite site and wash your hands. Over the next days, monitor the area and your dog’s general condition.
Common mistakes to avoid
Grabbing the tick by the abdomen instead of close to the skin.
Squeezing it too hard.
Twisting, spinning, or trying to “unscrew” it.
Pulling abruptly instead of using steady pressure.
Digging into the skin to remove small remaining fragments.
If you have proper tools available (hook, lasso, fine-tipped tweezers), use them - they provide better control and reduce the risk of crushing the tick. The tools described below can also be useful.

Tick Twister (tick removal hook)
These plastic hooks are designed to remove an attached tick without squeezing its body.
How to use:
Choose the hook size that fits the tick.
Slide the forked end flat against the skin, so the tick fits between the prongs.
Lift slightly and rotate gently (steady turning motion).
Continue turning until the tick releases.
Do not pull straight up with force and do not crush the tick.
After removal, disinfect the area.

Tick remover pen (loop-style tool)
This device uses a thin tightening loop to grasp the tick close to the skin.
How to use:
Press the button to extend the loop.
Place the loop over the tick and position it as close to the skin as possible.
Slowly release the button so the loop tightens around the tick’s mouthparts, not the body.
Pull upward with steady, even pressure until the tick releases.
Avoid sudden jerks or squeezing the tick’s body.
Disinfect the area after removal.

In Short - What We Actually Do
Situation | What we do |
Dog | Consistent tick prevention (tablet, collar or spot-on - not “occasionally”) |
Us | Permethrin on clothes; DEET or icaridin on skin |
Reminder | Ticks don’t fall from trees – they come from grass, brush, and the path |
Always | Carry a proper tick removal tool |
Routine - after every walk | We check ourselves and Mrok every day |
If we find a tick | Remove it immediately and disinfect |
After removal | Note the date and observe for changes |
If symptoms appear | Contact a vet or doctor |
Us - TBE | Vaccination is currently the only specific protection against tick-borne encephalitis. |
When you set your rules, apply them every time - even on short, technical walks. | |
Permethrin works well — but it is highly toxic to cats until fully dry.

Afanisep® 25 WP – an insecticidal concentrate containing permethrin. Once diluted, it can be used to spray clothing for protection against biting and crawling insects. Not for direct use on skin or animals.
Why didn’t I feel it?
Because a tick does not behave like a mosquito.
When it inserts its mouthparts, it releases substances that numb the area and reduce inflammation. In most cases there is no pain and no itching at the beginning. Very often you notice it only once it is already feeding.
Lack of sensation does not tell you when it attached.

Before the walk
We do not overcomplicate this.
Our dog has consistent tick protection recommended by a veterinarian. During tick season we use repellent on clothing when appropriate. We always carry a proper tick removal tool.
That is the baseline.

After the walk
We check. Every time.
On the dog we focus on:
armpits,
groin,
between the toes,
inside and around the ears,
under the collar,
around the tail base.
On ourselves:
neck and hairline,
behind the ears,
armpits,
waistband area.
Most ticks are found during this simple inspection, not later.

Below is a brief overview of the products we use and how each of them works in practice.
NexGard (afoxolaner)
Chewable tablet given once a month.
The active substance circulates in the dog’s bloodstream. A tick must attach and start feeding to be exposed to it.
It does not repel ticks. It kills them after they begin feeding.
Works as protection against Lyme disease and anaplasmosis. Because the tick must bite first, it does not prevent initial attachment.

Permethrin (for clothing)
An insecticide used on fabric, not on skin.
It works on contact. Ticks that crawl onto treated clothing are affected before they can reach the skin.
Applied to pants, socks, boots and outer layers.
Highly toxic to cats in liquid form. Apply away from home and allow clothing to dry completely before contact with cats.
DEET
A skin repellent.
It does not kill ticks. It reduces the chance they will attach.
Applied directly to exposed skin. Protection lasts several hours depending on concentration and conditions.
DEET can permanently damage technical fabrics, DWR coatings, plastics and eyewear. Apply only to skin, not to clothing or gear.

Icaridin (Picaridin)
A skin repellent.
Works similarly to DEET, with less odor and lower risk of material damage.
Applied to exposed skin. Duration of protection depends on concentration and environmental conditions.

Mrok and Us - Our Routine
Every walk with Mrok starts with a small backpack. Inside: two first aid kits - one for him, one for us - and a dog evacuation harness in case he can’t walk on his own.

If you want the full breakdown of what we carry and why, it’s described in detail here: The Dog Backpack
For tick protection specifically, the setup is simple. Clothing treated earlier with permethrin. DEET spray in the pack - for exposed skin when needed.
That’s our standard routine.
We live with cats. We apply permethrin away from the house and handle treated clothing only once it is completely dry.
Liquid permethrin is highly toxic to cats.

DEET and Technical Clothing
DEET can permanently damage technical fabrics, DWR coatings, plastics, and eyewear, so it should be applied only to exposed skin and never sprayed on clothing or gear.

Even high-quality technical garments such as Gore-Tex jackets can be affected by products containing DEET.
DEET does not usually damage the membrane itself, but it can weaken or dissolve the outer water-repellent finish (DWR), affect surface coatings, and in some cases cause discoloration of synthetic fabrics. When the DWR layer is compromised, the fabric can “wet out” more easily in rain, even though the membrane underneath may still be intact.
For this reason, DEET-based repellents should be applied to exposed skin only, not sprayed on jackets, shells, or other technical gear.
If you’d like to understand exactly what DWR is and how it works, we describe it in detail in our separate material on the subject.

The presence of an attached tick does not mean that illness will follow. Most tick bites do not result in infection. Transmission depends on multiple factors, including the species of tick, how long it has been attached, and whether it carries a pathogen at all.
Finding a tick that has already fed on you or your dog is a reason to act - not to panic. Remove it properly, as described earlier in this text, disinfect the area, and observe over the following days.
Calm action is the right response. Ignoring an attached tick is not.

Don’t avoid forests, meadows or trails because of ticks. Prepare properly and go.
What works for us works here in Poland. Names of products and regulations may differ where you live.
Use solutions that are available in your country and follow local medical guidance. If vaccination against TBE is available where you are, consider it seriously.
That’s it.




Why do we pull a tick straight up from the skin when removing it by hand, but rotate it when using a hook — meaning the movement is twisting and upward? And which direction: right or left?