Rügen with a dog on a bike

Mrok’s first cycling trip with overnight stays in a regular tent.

We escaped the rain and the wild mood of the Obra River and drove onto Rügen. An ancient beech forest, giant ferns, turquoise water, white cliffs, and the relaxed atmosphere of a surfers’ camp.

Perfectly prepared cycling paths on Rügen.

If Rügen had a symbol, it should be the local snack – a roll with fresh herring. We had heard about it before, but no story can capture the taste. You can eat it all day and never get bored. Simple and delicious – we recommend it to anyone coming here.

On the chalk cliffs of Rügen – Monika and Mrok with the Baltic Sea behind them.

We parked the Land Cruiser with the rooftop tent in a small town and started repacking for the cycling part of the trip. Four panniers had to hold everything for us and for Mrok during a few days on the road. Usually our bike trips last two or three weeks, but this time Mrok was with us. His first long ride in the trailer – we wanted to see how he would handle it. Another unknown was the small tent. He had never spent a night in one.

We were a bit worried about how Mrok would handle sleeping in a small tent – but true to his ACD nature, he relaxed right away.

We headed north, towards the famous white cliffs. By evening we reached a campsite at the edge of Jasmund National Park. After a long day we wanted a quiet corner, away from the many dogs around. The owner showed us a spot in the corner. Mrok was not pleased. Dogs had to stay on the leash, so he watched us with disbelief while we set up camp. We finished quickly and went to the meadows nearby. There, finally free, he ran up the slope and rolled in the grass, happy again.

In the beech forest of Rügen – a quiet walk with Mrok among the tall trees.

The first night in the small tent went well. Just like in the rooftop tent, Mrok curled up at our feet and slept soundly, snoring from time to time. Breakfast was simple. Instead of the big car kitchen, two ultralight stoves. I made coffee, Monika scrambled eggs, Mrok ate first.

What Mrok loves most – away from the marked trails with water under his paws.

The next day was a hike of over 20 km. Mrok walked on a ten-metre line, curious about every corner of the forest. The old beech trees created a special mood. We moved fast and reached the famous chalk cliffs. From above they were surprising for the Baltic, though for me not truly spectacular. Around us, tourists were busy taking photos and praising the view.

Our cycling camp on Rügen – two bikes, a small tent, and Mrok’s trailer.

We went down a staircase – the last part almost vertical steel steps. Too steep for Mrok. I lifted him into my arms and carried him down, step by step. At the bottom we found a narrow stony beach. He went straight into the water.

Sticks, rocks, jumps – he was in his element. Fewer people here, only scattered walkers. From above and from the water the coast looked more Mediterranean than Baltic.

A quiet walk captured in the ancient beech forest of Rügen.

By the time we reached the next small town we had covered more than 15 km, part of it on stones. We checked Mrok’s paws – Paws to Peaks has to live up to its name. Then another herring roll, this time after hours of walking.

Mrok on the dog-friendly beach – one of the nicest local ideas. This time it was empty, so the whole shore was his :)

Hunger made everything taste better, but the simplicity of this snack was striking. Later still, fish and chips – nothing like the British version. Mrok slept under the table, worn out.

The taste of Rügen – fresh herring in a bun, simple and unforgettable.

On the way south we passed Prora – the huge building begun in the 1930s. Buildings do not usually interest us, but what caught our eye was familiar: ferns, tall and dense, some over two metres high. Our favourite plants, making a real jungle. Among them, blackberry bushes heavy with fruit. We stopped, of course.

Our stop at the surfer-friendly campsite – Mrok blends right in with the laid-back vibe.

Asking locals about the best cycling route, we were told not to stick to the coast, where steep climbs awaited. Too late – we were already on it. Mrok jumped out of the trailer, and I pushed the loaded bike uphill. Local cyclists looked at us with surprise, searching for electric motors. Here e-bikes are everywhere, but we stick to trekking bikes.

A peaceful spot at the foot of Jasmund National Park.

The climbs and long straights gave me a chance to use every gear for the first time. It was also a test – the last long rides with Mrok had been in Portugal, when he was nearly ten kilos lighter. Harder now, but no e-bikes for us.

We walked back along this almost-beach for several kilometers to reach a small town – finally something was happening. Hiking trails on Rügen are very “German”: perfectly maintained, but a bit boring for us.

We passed a seaside resort and rode into the forest. By evening we reached a surfers’ camp at Thiessow, at the end of a peninsula in the southeast of Rügen. A place full of good energy – where people greet you with a smile and always look for solutions, not problems. We pitched the tent and walked a few steps to the beach.

Mrok is checking if the trailer lights are working – we’re about to head out, a storm is coming.

Walks, small trips, local food – and yes, more herring rolls. Mrok barked at cows, the weather was perfect, and the days slipped by easily. Evenings brought guitar music from a nearby tent. We felt more and more like partners with Mrok, our ACD sharing these adventures with us.

We made it to the Baltic Sea, so a short stop to let Mrok compare the taste of the water with the Atlantic – it’s his very first time here.

We packed up in the morning. A storm front was closing in on Rügen. After fifty kilometres we reached the parking spot where the Land Cruiser was waiting, as if saying: already back?

Standing high above the chalk cliffs of Rügen, taking in the wild beauty of the Baltic coast together.

The relaxed rhythm of Rügen and the way Mrok blended into bike travel left us in a good mood. Instead of heading home, we turned east – to the Biebrza National Park.

That story you will find in another part of our journey.

Evening stroll on Rügen’s eastern shore — just after sunset, when the world turns quiet.

End of the day, end of the journey – Mrok watching the sunset by our bikes.